Here we go! Debrief #2, giving you our thoughts about staying in Da Nang from March 13th until June 15th, 2020.
What was the most surprising thing about Da Nang?
Eva: I didn’t think we would find any supermarkets at all. Although it wasn’t super-easy to find westernized products, it was relatively painless to get somewhere where we could find staples. Also, there were an unusual number of apartment hotels which you don’t even find the US.
Ehren: Obviously, COVID caught us by surprise. That was a BIG surprise. But, for a pleasant surprise, I just loved the beach. It was largely vacant due to restricted travel at the time, but it was just amazing.
What would you change about the trip?
Eva: COVID. But apart from that, I would’ve tried to get an apartment/hotel closer to the market, on those hot days, it was uncomfortable & sweltering to walk to the beach and night market vendors.
Ehren: Being overly worried about the uncertainty of everything. You can learn to get used to it, but we’d planned nearly 9 months ahead, and everything fell apart while we were in Da Nang. We had a lot of time confined to our apartment that I had to reflect without being able to make any definitive plans. This was entirely self-inflicted.
Scale of 1-10 how easy is it for a US Citizen visiting for the first time to communicate and find the things you need?
Eva: 8, Say Cam ON, not Cam on. (we found out that lowering the second word meant Shut Up, where raising intonation meant Thank You)
Ehren: 4. There were very few local people who spoke English and it was difficult to find foods consistently. Their convenience stores stocked essentials inconsistently or didn’t stock them at all, which meant a longer commute to the larger market. And Grab… psh! Drivers expected you to find them, they’d drop you off in weird places that Grab arbitrarily chose and their GPS capabilities for food or rides was always maddeningly wonky. Using technology, it’s not really difficult live here, but comparing to Australia and preparing for Europe, I couldn’t give this a really high rating because they haven’t tried to Americanize their culture, it’s a true Vietnam experience (which was a great thing for us). With time, you can figure it out, easily.
How long would you optimally stay here (+- how long we stayed)?
Eva: Vietnam has been great, and although we only planned 1 month, if we had to get stuck somewhere, I’m glad that it was Vietnam. The heat was the only reason I wanted to leave Da Nang. I’d say Even, 3 months is good for Da Nang.
Ehren: I would say that 1 month would’ve been enough of Da Nang if we could’ve explored and seen more public exhibitions, but 2 months would be better for assimilation and understanding the people & country. As much as I LOVED Da Nang and the people and I don’t regret staying for 3 months, we were certainly ready to move by the end.
Could you move/live here?
Eva: No, I could not live in Da Nang. I could see how other people could live in Da Nang, but because of the heat and humidity, I could not live there.
Ehren: Yes, as a central location from which to travel, I could. It’s super affordable ($350/month rent for a serviced apartment, meals rarely over $10 for 2 people), access to the beach was luxurious, I could find enough to eat, it was safe and the people were welcoming and kind.
What did you learn about travel?
Eva: Things don’t go to plan. We booked our apartment/hotel at the airport (because our previous accommodations had been cancelled when we were flying) and I had dental work done while in town.
Ehren: That the airlines can pretty much do anything they want with your money. You pay, they don’t deliver, they get to decide if they’re going to refund, offer credit (in the unlikely event you’re travelling in the area again in the future) and often don’t even respond. Also, to contact them, I spent a bunch of time on the phone paying international cell rates. Will people continue to tolerate this behavior? What leverage do we have?
Anything else you want to add?
Eva: I think it’s a great destination for remote workers. The city is under development so there’s a lot more happening in the future. Right now you’re reliant on scooters or Grab, but there is a train going along the coast in the future, or there will be.
As near as I can tell, the Vietnamese pretty much leave you alone, so minorities and LGBT would feel comfortable here.
Ehren: This city is NOT designed to be pedestrian friendly. Vietnamese do not walk anywhere. The obstacles – parked scooters, construction debris, restaurant tables, cars and vendor carts – force you into the road, but also encourage exploration of alternate routes.
Tours and travel are exceptionally affordable, and the young guides are vibrant, grateful and do their best to accommodate English guests, even when there are few of them.
Also, I miss popcorn (difficult to find) and McDonalds and stick deodorant (neither are available).
Quick Fire Favorites:
Restaurant:
Eva: An Thuong Night Market
Ehren: Dirty Fingers
Hang out Joint:
Eva: Cabanas on My Khe beach
Ehren: Apocolypse Beach Club
Best Shopping:
Eva: Lotte Mart
Ehren: Lotte Mart for groceries
Point of Interest:
Eva: Beach
Ehren: Marble Mountain
Overall, the people, the beaches & culture: we love Da Nang and highly recommend visiting.